Are Bananas Perennial?

The perennial banana plant, which is from the genus Musa, grows from underground stems called rhizomes. The herbaceous plant, commonly but erroneously known as a “tree” because of its size — to 25 or more feet tall, has an unusual life cycle. It matures and grows bananas in 10 to 15 months; after yielding bananas that take four to eight months to ripen, the plant dies and is replaced with a different plant that goes through the same life cycle. A banana rhizome can live hundreds of years.

Climate

Bananas are native to tropical and subtropical areas of Asia and need 10 to 15 months of frost-free states to produce a flower stalk. Decorative varieties give a tropical appearance to a landscape. Only the hardiest varieties continue to develop when the temperature drops to 53 F, and fruiting varieties need 10 to 15 weeks of frost-free weather in order to cultivate a flower stalk. The flowering banana (Musa ornate) may develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) zone 8. Fruiting varieties grow in USDA zone 9 but don’t produce fruit; they yield bananas, so-called berries, in secure regions of USDA zone 10 and in zone 11.

Life Cycle

Banana stalks, known as pseudostems, are formed by leaves two to 9 feet long that spiral upwards from suckers growing on an underground rhizome. Growers predict these suckers pups. The spiraling leaves wrap around themselves, forming a hollow cylinder. An actual stem rises through the center of the cylinder. When the plant matures, a whorled bunch of blossoms grows in the tip of the stem. After the blossoms yield bananas, which develop in bunches called hands, the stalk dies and is replaced with another sucker growing in the rhizome.

Propagation

Cultivated bananas don’t have seeds. Exactly what were once seeds seem as small, brown specks from the faintly pithy or marginally hollow center of overripe bananas. Varieties of wild bananas have little flesh on their fruit, but they’ve tough, curved or angular black seeds in 1/8 into 5/8 inch broad. Growers propagate seedless domestic cultivars in the limbs that develop in their perennial rhizomes.

Rhizome Management

Banana growers usually allow one plant to acquire a six- to eight-month head start on its growth cycle prior to choosing the most effective of the remaining shoots on its rhizome to replace it and lift bananas. They prune the other, weaker shoots. After a plant matures and yields bananas, then they cut its stalk into the floor and chop it for use as mulch.

See related

The way to Prune Tree Roots to Stimulate Growth

When done properly, pruning roots might help stimulate a tree growth and drive it into bloom. It can also boost the quality of the harvest on some fruit trees. However, not all trees manage root pruning well. Stick to fruit trees and ornamentals like dogwood (Cornus florida), that rises in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Pruning tree roots can have catastrophic impacts on the health of the tree, so plan carefully prior to cutting the roots.

Gauge the width of the trunk at a height of about halfway in the ground to the first branch. Multiply that diameter by 5 and that number is how far out from the tree you should prune the roots. For example, if the tree contains a 20-inch trunk diameter, then measure out 100 inches in the trunk base.

Wait until the tree is ready for root pruning. In ornamental and fruit trees, this is often as soon as the existing blooms become well established and the tree is healthy enough to resist root pruning. This can cause some blooms to drop, but many will reappear as the tree goes to high gear to repair the root system. For young hardwoods which are not growing as quickly as you think they need to, wait to prune until mid-summer once the tree is fully leafed out; the leaves might help supply nutrients to support the tree while the root system redevelops.

Use a shovel to dig the dirt to find the root locations at the correct distance in the tree. Look for big roots extending out from the trunk base and follow a straight line out from the trunk for the very best results, but hidden origins can grow in almost any way. Most roots remain within 12 inches of the surface, so there is no need to dig deeper than that when you’re looking for roots.

Dig a hole big a few inches wider than the origin to provide you with room to work.

Shut the blades of big branch loppers across the root and compress sharply to cut through the origin. Repeat if required to chop all of the way through the origin. Massive loppers can usually cut roots around 3 inches in diameter, which is about the maximum size you should prune; cutting larger roots can result in an unstable tree which starts to fall or lean.

Prune a few roots on all sides of the tree, spacing them out evenly. Pruning on one side just can shock the tree, causing the side to begin to perish. Cutting the ideal number of roots can help improve the tree fruit or bloom production, but cutting a lot of can kill the tree. According to the Michigan State University Extension office, then you can prune around 60 percent of the roots to help promote bloom and fruit production.

Replace the dirt above the cut root. Don’t deal with the root using a product designed to encourage healing, as the root should begin to sprout out in the cut.

Water the tree with a deep, bald watering daily for about two weeks to make it easier for your tree to recover from the root pruning and give the tree that the moisture it needs to grow blooms and fruit.

See related

High-Traffic Landscaping

Landscaping a high-traffic area in your yard can pose several problems, but most are easily overcome by selecting the most appropriate plants and substances. While turf grasses are usually designed to withstand high foot traffic as well as using yard equipment, you may want something a bit more decorative to get a pathway or an area where your family walks often.

Ground Covers

While some ground covers are fragile and cannot tolerate significant doses of foot traffic, others are amazingly capable of handling almost anything you can throw at them. As an instance, miniature daisy (Bellium minutum), sturdy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10, produces dainty white daisies around 1-inch-tall stems and can manage being placed in pathways, courtyards or alternative high-traffic places. Other ground covers acceptable for this type of area include Dianthus gratianopolitanus “Petite,” hardy from USDA zones 4 through 9; the aromatic dwarf chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile “Treneague”), hardy from USDA zones 4 through 8; and the purple-flowering “Chocolate Chip” ajuga (Ajuga x “Chocolate Chip”), which is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9.

Gravel

Gravel is an excellent choice for high-traffic areas such as pathways, boundaries or courtyards. It’s also a good choice for wetter areas that may become muddy. Gravel comes in various shapes, textures and colors that could suit even the most particular of tastes. As it is relatively inexpensive, it may also fit any budget. In general, sharper-edged gravels function well with more modern or formal layouts; curved, soft-edged gravels function well in everyday gardens.

Traffic-Tolerant Plants

If the high-traffic area you’re landscaping requires some taller plants which could manage a bit more roughness than in other locations, a few shrubs and perennials are far better suited than others. Boxwoods (Buxus spp.) Can tolerate a fair amount of traffic without getting misshapen or stems being broken, and they are available in various sizes for your garden. The day lily family (Hemerocallis spp.) , hardy from USDA hardiness zones 3 through 10 (though this depends on variety), which contains tens of thousands of varieties to suit every taste. Day lilies can cope with moderate to heavy traffic without getting too ragged or destroyed.

Mixing It Up

Turf grass may live with just about anything you can throw at it, but you could also mix up the area by setting gravels, stepping stones and ground covers throughout a yard area. Landscaping with plants and hardscape materials which are created to withstand traffic allows you to bring a part of layout into a seemingly hard-to-design location. Low-growing, tolerant ground covers placed between flagstone stepping stones, by way of instance, give a natural, wild appearance to the area. Placing sturdy plants on the outer edges of the high-traffic place can finish your layout and tie the area into the rest of your landscaping.

See related

Creative Spacing for Dwarf Fruit Trees

Nurserymen create dwarf fruit trees using grafting techniques. The rootstock of a fruit tree determines that the ultimate size of this tree. The fruit-bearing limbs, or scion wood, decide the type and size of the fruit. Grafting methods are employed for centuries as a means to choose and preserve specific desirable fruiting characteristics. While all fruit trees need proper spacing to create the very best fruit, dwarf trees also lend themselves to various creative landscaping applications because of their easy-to-handle size. Generally speaking, allow at least a 8-foot diameter space for each dwarf tree for healthier air-flow; this spacing could be measured as 8 feet from trunk to trunk.

Improve Yard and Garden

Dwarf fruit trees can be used to conceal unsightly features such as fences, alleyways or sheds. Their dense foliage also buffers street noise or sounds from neighbors as it provides solitude. Taking into account the shadows they’ll cast at adulthood, put individual trees in the corners of their garden or plant them as a backyard border or at a casual row along a walking course. The fragrant blossoms of many trees such as citrus enliven a patio lawn. Not only do the trees offer the beauty of spring blossoms, they provide layers of green summer foliage and colors of ripening fruit and fall leaf which raise garden appeal as the seasons progress.

Enhance View

Plant dwarf fruit trees to frame a view from a window, deck or patio, or mark a boundary with a row of trees. Produce a screen with depth and texture by placing the tiny trees as a layer of mid-level foliage against a low-growing hedge. Space the trees 8 to 10 feet from the hedge and at least 8 feet apart in the row, to allow pristine maintenance. To use dwarf trees as focal points in garden beds, under-plant them with ground covers or reduced growing annuals or perennials. You’ll want to increase irrigation to provide ample water into both fruit trees and understory plantings, and the higher uptake of nutrients in densely populated regions may require additional fertilization as well.

Containers

Even though you can plant dwarf fruit trees straight in the ground, many varieties also thrive in containers. Trees in containers could be moved for protection in the harsh weather, making it possible to grow some varieties such as Eureka lemons (Citrus Limonum “Eureka”) year round, even in cooler areas. Utilize container trees to layout non-permanent windbreaks or to give shade from extreme heat for tender plants. Put them close a birdbath to offer perches and nesting places to wild birds. Avoid overcrowding container-grown trees by positioning the containers at least 8 feet apart. Rotating the containers provides the trees sun on all sides, enhancing fruit formation and production.

Espalier

Design a living wall along a fence, the side of a structure or on a trellis by coaching dwarf fruit trees using espalier procedures. In this form of garden art, you train the trees by pruning them into interesting layouts to your real or imaginary erect airplane. Criss-cross branches, wire them into curved lines, or produce easy candelabra or fan shapes. You can espalier in-ground trees as well as container plantings to configure them to available space.

See related

Mow Strip Thoughts

A variety of types of edging within landscapes independent turf from flowerbeds, gardens or gardens. They may contain or exclude soil, spreading groundcovers and mulch, allow foot or mower traffic and also contribute to the overall appearance of the yard. Additionally, certain types of edging can function as a mowing strip that will permit the wheels on one side of the mower to ride to the material’s surface, eliminating the need for additional trimming along the border of the lawn.

Brick or Stone

Brick, pavers and apartment, thick stones can create a pretty durable and attractive edging or mow strip. Interlocking pavers, bricks and heavy stones generally do not require mortar to stay securely in place in the event that you sufficiently prepare a trench and pack in soil firmly on both sides of this stuff. Mortared bricks and stones can prove durable, although the mortar or brick can crack and a mortared strip can hinder future landscaping strategies that involve changing the positioning of their lawn’s edge. Creeping turfgrass can soften the spaces between stones that do not fit together well, so placing the stones in brick or lining the bottom and sides of the prepared trench with landscape fabric is imperative to avoid the demand for hand cutting.

Timber

Landscape timbers, cut logs or even conventional construction timbers are rather inexpensive and can bring a natural or rustic feel to your landscape but are more challenging to use than brick or stone in which the mowing border is on a grade or must bend. If the wood isn’t treated with preservative or sealer on the sides or cut ends in contact with the soil, it can rot fairly quickly.

Concrete

Concrete as a mow strip creates a tidy, long-lasting border, although this may present challenges when trying to alter the size or shape of their lawn or other landscape features. Concrete is either poured directly set up into temporary forms or in small sections at a time in moulds and then set in place. Coloring additives, stamping and other finishing techniques can alter the appearance of a concrete mow strip as desired.

Installation Factors

Establish the mow strip stuff so that its top is level and flush or only slightly above the soil surface. If it goes too far over the soil surface, the mower blade will come into contact with it, making mowing near the edging impossible and calling for supplemental hand trimming. To set up most mow strip materials, dig a trench several inches deeper and also a few inches wider than the intended strip, which should measure at least 5 to 6 inches round, then fill it up about 2 inches of packed gravel and 1 inch of packaged, level sand before placing the mow strip stuff.

See related

Plants That Resemble Blueberries

Because they’re in precisely the exact same family as several woodland shrubs, blueberries share several features with their cousins, like bell-shaped blooms, shiny purple leaves and round berries. The berries of plants such as huckleberry or salal are edible and can be eaten raw or used in jams. Furthermore, if you have a shady garden, these understory plants are an outstanding choice where you can not develop sun-loving blueberries.

Huckleberry

Huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum) is also referred to as wild blueberry and one look at this plant will inform you why. The plant grows well in coastal areas where the berries will have a reddish tinge or in the mountains where the berries will be dark blue. The berries of huckleberry have a taste that’s sweeter than blueberries and can be eaten raw. Huckleberry can tolerate some sun, but prefers dappled shade and must be guarded from midday heat. Contrary to lemons, the huckleberry shrub is evergreen.

Salal

Salal (Gaultheria shallon) is indigenous to western North America. This sprawling shrub has evergreen leaves which are larger than blueberry leaves, however they have exactly the same dark, glossy look. The blossoms and berries closely resemble those of blueberries. The sprawling tree fits finest in huge gardens and can tolerate whole sun to shade, as well as poor soil. The dark blue berries are not as sweet as blueberries and can be eaten raw or cooked into jams or sauces.

Kinnikinninck

Kinnikinninck (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) ranges naturally in woodlands from California to Alaska. The flowers and leaves of the plant are easily mistaken for many of blueberries. Although round like a blueberry, kinnikinnick berries are bright red and attract birds to your garden. These berries are edible, but have little flavor; they can be cooked with sugar into a syrup for flavoring juices or water. This plant tends to sprawl and, if kept trimmed, can be educated to your ground cover.

Wintergreen

Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) looks strikingly like a blueberry plant until winter arrives. In winter, the evergreen leaves offer a splash of colour as they turn red from cold temperatures. The round berries have a dusky red colour and resemble the red-berried variety of blueberries, but have the minty taste of wintergreen. Although indigenous to the eastern United States, this shrub also grows well in temperate western places. Wintergreen prefers in shade to part shade and cannot tolerate whole sun.

See related

How to correct the pH in Water for Plants

Whether you’re growing plants hydroponically — which is, with the roots immersed in water — or in land, the pH of the growing medium round the plants is essential for ideal development. The pH of the growing medium could be acidic, alkaline or basic, or neutral; normally, plants prosper with a pH of about 5.5 to 6.5. Underneath that, plants are acidic, and above that, they are alkaline or basic. If you have discovered that the pH of the growing medium is out of whack, you may use quite a few different methods to fix the problem.

Insert the nutrients or fertilizers which you’re now using for your garden. If you’re growing hydroponically, wait about one hour before you move on to another step. If you’re growing in dirt, wait for 24 hours.

Test the growing medium by inserting a pH test strip or electronic test kit into it, following the directions on the evaluation kit to ensure proper testing. Read your pH level and compare this to the perfect pH for the type of plant you’re growing to ascertain whether you have to raise or lower the pH of the growing medium.

Fill a gallon jug with clean water. Depending on the material you’re using to adjust your pH, then you might be instructed to use a different quantity of water. Make sure you read the directions on the bottle or talk to the retailer for instructions on the proper water-to-substance mix.

Add lime, wood ash or a specially formulated solution into the water to boost the pH, or add sulfur, phosphoric acid or a pH-lowering solution decrease the pH. If you’re adding solid materials to a liquid solution, enable the substance to soak in the water for a couple hours to allow it to “steep.”

Water your crops using the solution. If you’re growing in dirt or another solid like perlite, water the plants using the solution in the same manner you would water the plants using frequent water. If you’re growing hydroponically, add the solution to your hydroponic solution.

Test the pH again following the therapy, to ascertain whether you have to do another therapy. For hydroponics, wait about 30 minutes to check the pH again. For dirt and other solids, wait about 24 hours.

See related

The way to Trim the Wick in a Hurricane Lamp

Hurricane lamps, also referred to as flat-wicked kerosene lights, which have been utilized as a lighting source since the late 1800s and remain in certain homes today for nostalgic or ornamental purposes or as a practical backup light supply during an emergency. Unlike candle wicks, which can be woven in a manner that they will burn in the flame and basically self-trim, the wick in a hurricane lamp requires routine trimming to remove the charred residue that causes a dim smoking and fire.

Remove the lamp’s chimney or reveal the wick and extinguish the lamp’s fire, if it is lit.

Turn the regulating wheel that adjusts the wick height to reveal a greater quantity of wick

Cut the top of the wick off with a straight cut throughout the breadth of wick. You may also marginally trim the corners of the wick shirt so it’s a gently-curving shirt or cut it up at an angle to attain different fire shapes, as desirable.

Fix the wick height utilizing the regulating wheel to ensure about 1/8 inch of wick extends out of the mounting shaft that holds it.

Remove any charred remains or other debris in the burner screen to ensure airflow remains unrestricted.

Replace the hurricane lamp’s chimney. You can wipe any soot off of the interior of the chimney prior to replacing it, if needed, for a neater look.

See related

Yellowing Banana Plant Leaves

The large leaves on most forms of banana plants are a deep emerald green when healthy, but ecological conditions and diseases might turn leaves yellow. Although problems brought on by dirt and weather are often easily remedied, infections are much more difficult to deal with. With appropriate maintenance, banana leaves may remain healthy, and banana plants may thrive up to 25 years in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11.

Growing Requirements

Banana plants can tolerate many different soil types, such as poor soils, however soils that have too much saline or too little potassium may cause yellowed leaf margins or orange-yellow-colored leaves. Both flooding and drought can also create yellowing leaves, as can prolonged periods of temperatures below 57 degrees Fahrenheit. Soil alterations like gypsum or farmyard manure, also known as FYM, can help treat saline and potassium problems. At flood-prone areas, plant bananas on a raised bed at least 3 feet higher than the surface to limit possible damage.

Cordana Leaf Spot

Cordana leaf spot (Cordana musae) is quite common on banana plants in humid conditions or at wounded and weakened tissue. Symptoms on leaves incorporate large, oval lesions that are brown in the center, with yellow halos round the borders. Even though the disease could be controlled with fungicides, it rarely causes severe damage to plants.

Panama Disease

Also known as banana wilt, Panama disease is caused by a fungus in the Fusarium oxysporum familymembers. The first visible signs of Panama disease are a yellowing or splitting on the oldest leaves, followed by leaf wilt and ripped. Since plants found in soils having a low pH makes may be more vulnerable to Panama disease, correcting dirt to make it less acidic and more alkaline may help prevent the problem. Chemical treatment of affected plants is often ineffective, although methyl bromide, carbendazim, potassium phosphonate and heat-treating soil might help.

Bunchy Top

Bunchy top, or BBTV, is a viral disease transmitted by aphid insects and also is among the most lethal diseases of the banana plant. New leaves on infected plants are wavy, narrower than standard and have yellow margins. There is no cure for the illness when it takes hold, conserve removing and destroying infected banana plants and killing bugs using insecticidal soaps to prevent aphids from infecting plants. Eliminate the entire infected banana plant, such as digging the primary corm and roots, and dispose of this plant through burning, or allow it to rot in a black plastic bag.

Yellow Sigatoka

Yellow sigatoka, caused by the fungus Mycosphaerella musicola, is often present when warm temperatures, higher humidity and regular rainfall are found. Symptoms start as little yellowish-green spots that develop to yellow streaks which might have brown or rusty red centres. Even though the disease doesn’t kill the plant, it also may affect the size and quality of fruit. Treatment involves an proper fungicide and removal of diseased leaves.

See related

Does a Pineapple Grow Best in Sand, Soil or Water?

Pineapples grow well in warm climates, as they are indigenous to South America. Cold weather, 32 degrees Fahrenheit or lower, can damage or freeze the plant. Pineapples are grown as a commercial crop in Hawaii, but develop in different areas in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 though 11, and indoors in cooler climates. To develop well, pineapples have certain soil requirements.

The very best Soil

Pineapples need well-drained soil since it is impossible for them to withstand a waterlogged growing medium. Because of this, the ideal soil for growing pineapples is a sandy loam, since mud allows for fast isolating, or water movement, through the soil. Even though pineapples dislike waterlogged soil, they’re drought-tolerant, but need even moisture for proper fruit growth. Pineapples generally need about 1 inch of water per week, through rainfall or supplemental watering.

Soil for Indoor Pineapples

Pineapples grown indoors desire a potting mix of light, sandy loam as well. It is possible to use a potting mix containing two parts humus, 1 part sand and 2 parts soil. Because drainage is essential for pineapple development, the ideal container is also important. Clay containers are a fantastic alternative for growing pineapples. The container must have drainage holes and a layer of pebbles or shards of clay pot on the bottom to help with proper drainage.

Other Soil Requirements

Pineapples need a neutral to mildly acidic pH, ranging from 4.5 to 6.5. Soils that are too alkaline require a sulfur therapy to reduce the pH. The plants need nitrogen to get proper fruit growth, so you need to feed the pineapple with a balanced fertilizer every two to three months. For indoor pineapples, feed plants using a foliar spray fertilizer twice a month during the active growth period. Throughout winter, when growth slows, only feed crops once a month.

Water for Pineapple Rooting

When spreading pineapples, you can use water to root the pineapple top. Remove the top of a pineapple that has a healthy, leafy shirt, cutting about 1/2 inch under the leaf clusters. Then, cut away the outer part of the pineapple top’s flesh, which leaves the leafy shirt and a stringy core. Remove all of the leaves except for five to 10 of the largest leaves. Using toothpicks, place the top into a glass of water to root — approximately 1/2 inch deep.

See related