Insuring Your Apartment, Condo, or Mobile Home

If you lose your house to fire, disaster or theft, insurance may cover the loss. How much it insures depends on your policy. Some policies only pay the cash value of your property, but others pay the cost of replacing it. On a 9-year-old television, as an example, cash value is a great deal less compared to the replacement cost. Condos, apartments and mobile homes all need different coverages from regular homeowners insurance.

Insuring Apartments

California law requires your landlord insure the apartment building you’re residing in. However, the landlord’s policy gives your furniture and possessions zero security; to pay themyou need renter’s insurance. A renter’s policy covers theft or damage of your possessions. Even if they are stolen out of your rental — from your car, for instance — they are covered. Your policy may also defend you against liability and health care bills for accidents in your apartment. Additionally, it may pay living expenses if you have to move out after a fire or other catastrophe.

Covering Your Condo

In some ways, condo coverage is similar to renter’s insurance: Your condo association covers the construction, and you’re responsible for your unit. Some associations have a”bare walls” policy that extends to your unit walls, but not inside them. Insuring the floor lamps, granite counter tops, hardwood floors and so forth is your responsibility. An”all in” policy insures fittings, though not your furniture and personal possessions. Your personal policy insures everything the association policy does not.

Trailer Policies

Mobile homes are a subset of manufactured homes — houses constructed at a factory, then sent to the website, rather than constructed on the property. If you rent a mobile home, you take out renter’s insurance. If you have, you purchase made – or – mobile-home insurance. This works just like a normal homeowner policy, except it costs . Manufactured homes are not usually as strong as a traditional built-on-site home, so insurers charge homeowners a greater premium.

Adequate Coverage

If you take out $100,000 worth of coverage, it is insufficient for $200,000 worth of losses. Even replacement value policies have limits to how much they will pay. If you have bought lots of expensive items as you took out your policy, you might not need to increase your coverage. Specialty, high-ticket things like electronics or jewelry may require extra coverage. If you require protection against flood damage, you are going to have to get flood coverage separately, as regular insurance does not cover it.

See related

The Minimum Size to a Attic's Access

Attic access panels serve as a significant security and convenience feature in the home. These openings not only allow electrical and mechanical contractors to get equipment and wiring, but in addition they provide for simple storage access for the homeowner. The International Residential Code dictates the minimum size for attic access openings in the USA.

Minimum Opening Size

The 2012 International Residential Code requires an attic access opening for attics with an area greater than 30 square feet and a vertical height in excess of 30 inches. The rough framed opening must measure at least 22. If the opening is situated at a wall, it must be at least 22 inches wide and 30 inches high.

Attics With Mechanical Gear

Attics containing mechanical equipment, such as an air conditioner, require itself opening irrespective of the size of the attic. This opening must provide clear access of at least 20 by 30 inches; it must be large enough to permit removal of the biggest piece of equipment in the attic.

See related

How to Wash Grease From Leather Upholstery

Grease can ruin your leather seat or seat in case you don’t eliminate it immediately. The grease soaks through the protective layer of coated leather and embeds itself permanently into the leather when left unattended. Nubuck or suede leather might need an over-the-counter cleansers to efficiently eliminate the grease. However, whenever you’ve got a seat or seat with a shiny leather, semi-aniline or aniline surface, then you can utilize one of 3 recipes — based upon supplies you have on hand — from household supplies to remove the grease from leather upholstery.

Talcum Powder Method

Blot the excess grease in the coated upholstered leather furniture with a paper towel or clean, dry cloth.

Cover the grease spot with talcum powder. Use sufficient talcum powder to cover the entire spot and soak up the grease. Permit the powder to sit down on the area overnight. The powder pulls grease and excess oil from the leather. If you do not have talcum powder, corn syrup works in its own place.

Eliminate talcum powder from the leather with a clean microfiber cloth.

Dampen a clean cloth. Wring out excess water. Apply a small dab — about a dime-sized number — of a commercial leather cleaning soap or merchandise onto your dampened cloth.

Rub the cloth over the spot from the management of the leather’s grain. If you cannot locate the direction in which the leather runs, rub the cleaner from the outside edges of the stain toward its middle.

Continue cleaning until the grease stain is gone. Wipe off excess cleaner with a wash rag. Blot the leather with a clean cloth.

Homemade Paste

Add 3/8 cup distilled water, 1/8 cup sea salt, 1/2 teaspoon white flour plus one tablespoon of baking soda to the little bowl after removing the extra grease with a clean paper towel or towel. Mix to create a white paste.

Dip microfiber cloth into the white paste mixture. Rub mixture onto the grease spot on coated leather upholstery working in the management of the grain of the leather. For tough stains, work the mixture into the leather with a soft, old toothbrush.

Dip a clean cloth into a bowl of distilled water. Wipe off excess paste mixture with dampened cloth. Repeat until all surplus paste is gone.

Blot dry the leather upholstery with a clean, dry cloth.

Degreasing Detergent

Pour a degreaser detergent into a little bowl around 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep across the base of the bowl. Replenish as needed. This system works best for unprotected, raw or soft leathers.

Wrap the microfiber cloth around two hands. Dip your cloth-covered fingers into undiluted degreaser. Rub the degreaser onto the leather at the direction of the grain.

Add distilled water to the spray bottle. Spray the region of the leather only rubbed with the distilled water.

Work up a gentle lather on the sprayed spot by rubbing your finger across the region. Repeat until all of the grease is eliminated. Blot the cleaned area with a dry cloth.

Spray distilled water above the blotted place. Blot cleaned spot again with microfiber cloth until dry.

See related

How to Clean Mold and Mildew in the House From High Humidity

Mold and mildew in the home can grow into a serious health hazard if left untreated. These fungi thrive in bathrooms, laundry rooms or wherever heat and moisture mix. They could lead to health problems for the house’s inhabitants, especially people with allergies or respiratory problems. While combating mould and mildew is just a simple fact of life for people who reside in humid areas, once you know how to clean and eliminate mould and mildew, then it is possible to address the problem at its source.

A Quick Clean

If furnishings and household things become moist or wet, then you need to clean them within in the first 24 to 48 hours. Waiting more than 48 hours promotes mold and mildew growth. Clean moldy surfaces with detergent and rinse thoroughly with water before allowing to dry completely. The sunlight’s ultraviolet rays also kill mould spore, so enable things to dry outdoors as soon as possible. You might have to toss out porous materials, like some forests, ceiling tiles and fabrics when they’ve severe infestations. As you easily ingest or inhale mould and mildew spores throughout cleaning, take action to limit your exposure. Wear gloves, goggles and a N95-rated face mask when working with mould and mildew. Select gloves made of polyurethane, natural rubber and other heavy duty materials to keep your hands protected

A Stronger Solution

For more tough infestations, use a beach remedy consisting of 1 cup of bleach and one gallon of water. A stiff-bristle brush efficiently eliminates fungi growth from the hard surfaces found in tubs and showers. Refrain from mixing bleach using household cleaners containing chlorine as it creates dangerous, toxic fumes. Avoid working in enclosed spaces; store doors and windows open to encourage the flow of fresh air. Do not use bleach to get regular mould and mildew clean-ups — reserve it for severe circumstances. Call in a professional mold remediation group for infestations larger than 10 square foot.

Carpets and Floors

Carpets offer you an ideal environment for mold and mildew to thrive since moisture accumulates in the carpet fibers and can result in rampant growth. Frequently launder place or throw rugs to get rid of mould and prevent new growth. Immediately place clean carpet stains and spills as they occur to stop the moisture absorption. Blot dry after cleaning to eliminate excessive dampness. Any remaining moisture from the cleaning procedure exacerbates mould and mildew growth.

Air It Out

Surplus moisture combined with heat causes mildew and mould growth. Dealing with mold and mildew becomes an endless cycle of cleansing, unless you treat the problem at its source. Fix frameless windows and leaky pipes in toilets, basements and kitchens where moisture accumulates. Open up doors and windows to let in fresh air or ventilate the moisture by turning exhaust fans in kitchen and bathroom areas. When temperatures climb — or if you reside in a particularly humid place — use air conditioners and dehumidifiers to promote dry conditions. Vent clothes dryers to divert moisture outside your home.

See related

How to Take Soap Scum off a Mirror

Soap scum isn’t confined to bathtub rings and dirty shower walls. If you maintain a mirror on your shower or splash the one over the sink when you wash your face, soap scum may build up on the glass. This oily film is a combination of soap residue, mineral deposits in water, bacteria, dirt, and the oils you wash your skin off. Luckily, even heavy soap scum comes off a mirror having a tiny scrubbing and cleanser.


Pour 1/4 cup white vinegar and 1 cup water in a spray bottle. Shake the bottle to mix.

Spray the mirror generously using the vinegar solution and allow it to sit for five minutes.

Wipe the mirror clean with a paper towel.

Spray some of the vinegar solution on a soft toothbrush and scrub around the inside of the mirror frame, in which the frame meets the glass.

Polish the mirror with a piece of crumpled newspaper to eliminate streaks.


Open the windows and turn on the ventilation fan in the bathroom. Wear a set of rubber gloves.

Mix 1/2 cup ammonia and 1/2 cup water in a spray bottle. Shake the bottle to mix.

Spray the ammonia solution on the mirror and then wipe it off with a paper towel. Repeat this step if any soap scum stays.

Spray some of the ammonia solution on a soft toothbrush and scrub across the inside of the mirror frame, in which the frame meets the glass.

Polish the mirror with a piece of crumpled newspaper to eliminate streaks.

See related

The way to Get Tape Residue Off Walls

The more you leave tape on the wall, the harder it is to remove and the more likely it is that paint will probably come with this. If you’re finding this out the hard way, help can be found. Lubricating the tape generally helps, provided that the lubricant can contact the adhesive. Once the tape is gone, then the outline may still stay. You can get rid of this with a glue made from just two common household ingredients.

The Gunk That Binds

The sticky coating on masking, duct, cellophane and other tapes is a pressure-sensitive adhesive that, unlike other glues and cements, doesn’t need to change from a fluid to a solid in order to bind. Actually, that means that you need to be able to pull it away any surface to which it is adhering. PSAs come in varying strengths, however, as producers find the happy medium between an adhesive that sticks vigorously and one that’s easy to remove. Masking tape is color-coded according to binding strength; green and blue are the easiest to remove. Stickers and decals are intended to be permanent, but tape seldom is.

Soap It Off

If you can’t readily remove masking tape from the wall, then one of the reasons might be that the PSA has lost its versatility, that becomes increasingly likely the more you leave the tape on the wall. Even though you might continue to be able to have some of it away by digging at it with your fingers, you’ll probably should lubricate the rest. Spraying a solution of warm water and dishwashing detergent is generally effective for removing dried masking tape. The water softens the paper financing while the soap loosens the bond between the tape and the paint.

Peel and Unstick

Tape which has a nonporous financing, such as duct or cellophane tape, will soften strong solvents such as acetone or lacquer thinner, but these chemicals are very likely to damage painted surfaces. A safer option is to use a combination of scraping and lubrication to remove them. Beginning at the peak of a stubborn bit of tape, carefully peel back the border with razor blade and spray a lubricant, such as a dish soap alternative, white vinegar or olive oil. Permit the lubricant to penetrate, then scrape a little more and continue in this way until the tape is off.

The Coconut Solution

Most kinds of tape discolor the wall when left for an extended duration, and deposits remains even after you manage to remove them. You can create a glue that eliminates this discoloration and deposits with equal elements of coconut oil and baking soda. Coconut oil softens the adhesive, while baking soda provides only enough abrasive activity to clean it away without damaging the paint on the wall. The glue works best if you leave it on the affected area for many moments before you rub it away with an abrasive pad or fine steel wool.

See related

Pros & Cons of Ceramic Cooktops

Ceramic cooktops are state of the art. Some conceal those ugly, old fashioned coil heating components while some conceal state of the art electromagnets for induction heating. Smooth, ceramic cooktops have as many disadvantages as they do benefits. There are lots of facts to take into account before deciding on buying a smooth, ceramic cooktop or stove.

Counter Space

Two of the biggest benefits of ceramic cooktops are additional counter space and the ease by which they may be cleaned. Counter space is always at a premium, especially in smaller kitchens, and also a smooth-top stove or cooktop may add much needed space. Ceramic cooktops can easily be scratched, though, which means you wouldn’t wish to utilize them for food preparation, but they can be used for putting meals to be served within their serving dishes and bowls. Smooth cooktops can also be more easily cleaned if you spill food on them.

Beautifies Any Kitchen

Another huge thing selecting smooth cooktops is their ultra-modern look. Ceramic cooktops hide those ugly, old coiled heating components, giving your kitchen a sleek, contemporary look. Aesthetically they can’t be beat.

Danger of Burns

One of the biggest disadvantages of ceramic cooktops is that once the inflammation of the heat components showing through the ceramic top disappears, you have no means of knowing the ceramic might still be hot. Serious burns can result if you or among the children touches the top. This is not a concern with a induction ceramic cook top because they are always cool to the touch.

Pots and Pans

Another big disadvantage of installing a ceramic cooktop or stove is that just pans and pots with thick, smooth seams may be utilized. Pots and pans with rough bottoms can easily scratch the smooth, ceramic top. Some pots, like aluminum- or copper-bottom pans and pots should not be used since they leave marks that can be hard or even impossible to eliminate. Painted, tooth pans and pots are just another no-no since they can stick with the ceramic layer, which might lead to splitting of the surface when they are pulled free.

Unique Cleaning Required

Glass and ceramic cooktops and stoves are so easily scratched their producers supply special sachets with them. One of the sachets contains a special cleaner to remove dirt and grime without being overly abrasive because of scratch the sensitive surfaces. The second sachet contains a sealer to reseal the glass or ceramic top after cleaning. Their producers also give you a special scraper that’s safe to use on ceramic or glass tops. This scraper was made to eliminate boiled-over, baked-on messes without damaging the top.

See related

The way to Lay a Copper Penny Tile Floor

“Find a penny, pick it up” takes on a completely different meaning when you are in a room hall using them. As an alternative to ceramic and glass tile, copper pennies will stand out enough to be noticeable — hello, Abe! — however won’t detract from a room’s overall layout. Forget about the debt ceiling and begin focusing on your floor.

Make Change

To tile a floor with copper pennies, expect to spend between $2.50 and $3 per square foot, depending on how you lay your tilefloors. You can work out the number of square feet you want to cover by measuring the width and length of the room and then multiplying these two numbers together. You may want to tack on a few extra feet just in case. Most banks will allow you to purchase change from these, provided that you are a customer. If you want your pennies at a pattern — all facing one direction or rows of pennies facing alternating directions — lay out your routine before you begin. Soak tarnished and muddy pennies in vinegar for a few minutes to bring out their shine.

Educate Your Floor

Just how much cleaning and planning you will need to do will be based on the surface where you intend to lay your copper penny tiles. Interior designer Laura Quinn, author of the design blog, needed to take up vinyl floors and wash and out the underlying tilefloors. Momina Khan of recommends removing any foundation molding before evening out your floor, and after you are done, thoroughly wash the floor with a detergent-based solvent, rinse and let dry.

Penny Wise Layout

The way you lay your pennies on the floor will determine just how long this job will require. Quinn laid her copper penny tiles right on the floor with glue. You also can attach your pennies to self-sticking fiberglass — usually accessible 6-by-6 inch or 12-by-12 inch sheets. Gluing the pennies to your floor may result in crooked rows and can be hard to remove if one day you change your mind on your floors. It could also be hard keeping everything in line if you are working in the middle of the area where you’re tiling. When you are done, cover each one of the pennies with an epoxy-based transparent adhesive to assist them place. No grout wanted. Attaching pennies to fiberglass sheeting first enables you to do the work elsewhere, such as on a table. After filling one sheet with pennies, add your epoxy adhesive and move to the next sheet. Put down the sheets one at a time, pressing each securely to assist set. You may want to trim one or two sheets to fully cover the floor. You require at least six hours of drying time before you grout.

Grout and Establish

After combining your grout and water, then use a rubber grout float to propagate grout over the pennies. More is less, Khan stated, because you can always wipe off excess, and this excessive can go a long way toward filling in gaps. After providing the grout the three days or so it ought to set, clean off any excess and then seal it with an epoxy sealant, covering the entire floor evenly. You can buy epoxy sealant kits in your regional home-improvement store. You can walk on your new shiny floor after giving another three days to fully set and dry.

See related

What Palm to Plant on a Fence

There is something about the shape of a palm tree along with its delicate, feathery fronds that invokes the tropics. If your landscape includes a fence, you might plant one or more palms along it to include a tropical touch. Deciding on the best variety for your individual type of fence and selecting one well-suited for your climate are important steps to help succeed.

Tall Fences

Massive hands with sole straight trunks and high, full canopies could be excellent choices planted near a tall fence, either separately or within a row. The American oil palm (Attalea cohune,) also referred to as the cohune palm, is a stunning tree that operates in this type of location. It reaches a full height of up to 50 feet, using a massive crown of dark-green, feather-shaped leaves, and is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 12. The Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis) is another attractive tall hand, reaching a height of up to 60 feet, using a thick trunk covered with diamond-shaped designs and a crown of 50 arching leaves. It does best in USDA zones 9 through 11.

Palms for Privacy

Planting short palms along a picket-type fence, especially one with large spaces between pickets or slats, can provide a feeling of safety and privacy. The European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis) rises well in USDA zones 8 through 11, creating clumps that could reach a height of 15 feet at maturity. Its relatively short trunk and dense layer of triangular, fan-shaped fronds make the tree an appealing and effective privacy screen. The pygmy date palm (Phoenix reclinata) also works well against a short, open-slatted fence. It has multiple, blunt stems that are covered with loose brown fiber and support crowns of green to yellow, feathery fronds up to 15 feet long. It’s best suited for USDA zones 9 through 11.

Border Fencing

A number of small hands do nicely planted in rows along a short fence, by way of example, from the rear area of a fenced edge. The metallic palm (Chamaedorea metallica), also referred to as the miniature fishtail palm, has blue-green, metallic-appearing foliage that is unusual because the leaves are not divided into leaflets. Naturally tolerant of low light, these palms are about 3 feet tall and suited for USDA zones 9 through 12. Yet another dwarf-sized plant, the blue-stem palm (Sabal minor) is also well-suited as an accent along a short border fence. Suitable for USDA zones 8 through 10, it creates bluish-green fans over a short trunk, reaches a height of 2 or 3 feet complete and prefers partial sun or light shade.

Hot Spots

Some fenced places are subject to unusually high heat, either because the fence includes heat-retaining metal or has a southern exposure. Even though most palms are humidity-loving plants that don’t tolerate extreme heat, several do well in landscape warm spots. For example, the Mexican blue hand (Brahea armata) is a desert tree using fan-shaped circular leaves topping a thick trunk. It may attain a mature height of 50 feet, tolerates rough, rocky soils and protracted periods of heat and drought, and is suited for USDA hardiness zones 8 through 11. The windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), also referred to as Chusan palm, is a compact, extremely heat-tolerant tree with a slender stem along with a full crown of feathery fronds. It rises slowly to about 15 feet and does well in USDA zones 7 through 10.

See related